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Flames!
Here's a little write-up on how to paint flames like the master!
Alternatively, here's the easy way to make your exhaust glow with envy. Especially if you don't have the patience to paint flames, create real ones instead!
What's this spell? Look close...
Supplies needed:
Marker
Paint in various colors (I use white, yellow, orange and red)
several rolls of 3" QUALITY masking tape
newspaper
x-acto knife or similar
screwdriver
scouring pad (for overspray on windows)
Ok, the first step in performing a pimp-ass paint job is identifying a vehicle worthy of your artwork. I chose my recently acquired 1988 Mazda B2200, shown here:
Judging by the flat black paint, it's just SCREAMING for a flame job!
Anyway, I started out by purchasing all required supplies at the local ACE hardware.
NOTE: I bought WAY too much spraypaint this time. I only used 1.5 cans of each color. Be absolutely sure you buy the quality 3M masking tape, as everything else is a complete PITA to remove after the fact.
After prepping the vehicle (a nice wash, or fresh coat of flat black), it's time to start removing emblems and masking off everything you don't want painted. Here's my B2200 emblems being removed:
Came off easily with a screwdriver. Now, I didn't bother masking much of the truck, as it really wasn't worth the effort. However, if you can't just respray the rest of your vehicle, I'd advise masking it off VERY thoroughly, as overspray gets everywhere. I wasn't concerned about it, and the paint came off the windshield easily with a scouring pad. (Hey, it was cracked anyway).
I apply the Masking tape where I'm planning on having the flames END. This is key. After covering a decent part of the truck, I used a sharpie to draw flames on the masking tape. This isn't that critical, but take some time to make a decent layout with them. As you can see from the pic below, I didn't put enough tape on the hood, and the flames ended up bunched together.
Once you're happy with the flame layout, it's time to use the x-acto knife and cut out the pattern, as shown below. This is the most important part of the whole operation, if you screw up cutting the pattern out, you'd be better off starting over with a new section or two of tape. Peel away the tape where you want the flames to be, leaving the complete flame outline exposed.
(note 'Stang burnout mark!)
I found this acceptable, so I proceeded to finish masking off the grille and part of the door. Once you're done with that (and SURE that paint won't get where you don't want it!), it's time to start painting!
Start with a primer, either white or grey. It makes a great deal of difference, as lighter colors like yellow have a very hard time covering up the flat black.
There it is covered in white primer. Once it's been given a reasonable amount of time to dry, it's OK to proceed with the colors. Start with the lightest color first, and work your way to the tips of the flames, it's much easier to get a decent fade between colors.
Here it is after a couple layers. Believe it or not, the nozzles found on cheap spraypaint (old-school button-types) have a better spray pattern than the newer kinds. Of the paint I got, the nozzles on the white and red were excellent for fading work, so that's what I concentrated on. It's best to try fading with the cans about 20" from the surface, as the spray pattern is wider. I've also had good luck with aiming the nozzle perpendicular to the surface.
Remember, it's just paint. If you're not happy with how it looks at the moment, stop. Wait until it dries, then try again. It doesn't hurt to put on a little extra to achieve the results you want.
After about 15 min of drying time, it's OK to start removing the masking tape, revealing your precious work. Be careful not to touch the flamed area for at least a half day, as the paint, though dry to the touch, will not be fully cured for at least a day. Be sure not to get greasy thumbprints in it. :) It's also advisable to wax it in a day or two, as there will likely be overspray on the surface that won't come off without friendly persuasion. The wax should take care of that.
Here is a tip graciously sent in by RIJon:
The paper folded over helps when the spraycans being used don't have decent nozzles on them. It helps to evenly distribute the fade, and is more foolproof than eyeballing it. I'm good at the latter, so I haven't had a chance to use this method yet. However, I have about five other flame paint jobs in the works, so I'll have a chance to try this technique out soon.
Lastly, the finished product:
Isn't it pimp?
Another recent flame job...
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